As I sit in my room at a resort in Coron in the Philippines, I look out over low trees to the strip of sparkling blue water and the almost uninhabited green hills behind, and recall the last few days of diving in the waterways of Coron Bay.
It’s been a nice holiday. I’ve met some new people, been active and adventurous, explored a bit more of the world. Scuba diving is a wonderful sport for a keen traveller. Shipwrecks, the big draw card of Coron, are fun to float through. Their eerie, dark stillness is exciting and paradoxically calming at the same time. It’s surreal to see fish pass by port holes, to recognize ladders and engines under coral growth, to swim through holes in steel.
But I’ve been disappointed, too. From my balcony, the view looks pristine and the landscape, healthy. Closer to the real world, it’s not so good.
There is a great big gash in the side of a hill. Dirt has been dug and removed. Down by the water, in front of the mangroves, a mound of earth rises up a couple of meters over the water line. It stretches half a kilometer one way and a quarter the other. Apparently, this is where the dirt was transferred; an illegal land reclamation. A group of developers thought it would be a good idea to create a housing and holiday village while no-one was looking, through Covid times. The only problem was, it wasn’t government approved, and there is no infrastructure. One road in and out. No sewer or water. Nothing. And now it sits empty, the investors fined a few thousand dollars, the land a vacant lot. An intrusive wasteland.
Under the water, the natural reefs are sparsely populated. There is little colour and variation amongst the corals. There are few fish. The water isn’t clear. I don’t know if it’s silty because the sea floor is denuded of grass, or because it’s covered in organic waste, or if something has stirred it up. Some of my fellow divers heard a large boom, felt a reverberation: dynamite fishing. I inwardly shrink when I hear this. No wonder there is so little life. On top of run off from land degradation and warming temperatures, there is mass killing of sea creatures.
I looked it up. I read part of the government’s Resource Management Plan. Yes, Coron has a problem. There are too many people struggling to make a living. Forests are cut down. The sea is over-harvested. There isn’t enough infrastructure to support the population. But tourism, conversely, is necessary to steer the economy away from destructive practices towards environmentally friendly ones. It’s a difficult situation.
I will leave this place with happy memories of being active in nature. The waterways are still lovely, the wrecks interesting, the tropical climate conducive to fun.
But I am also sad. Perhaps the hard words I’ve written will reverberate somewhere where they can help. I don’t know how, but I do know that ignorance is not bliss. It causes more destruction and fear. When we know what the truth is, we can face it and try to fix it. We can find a way.
What Coron needs is empathy, generosity, and appreciation. Come to think of it, this is what the whole world needs now, too. Each and every one of us needs to engage with nature and do our own bit to preserve and repair it. Just appreciating it is a start. I hope I’ve helped.
